Wednesday 31 October 2012

PHASELIS...


Another cloudy day so, we headed southwest from Antalya, hugging the coast line and marveling at the views. Steep mountains emptying into the turquoise sea, freckled with large rock outcroppings.  Evergreens scented the air, while late blooming fall flowers spilled over window boxes and trellises.

The turn-off for Phaselis was about 45 minutes away and down (yes, a welcome change in direction!) a gradually sloping road through a pine forest to the edge of the sea.  The Lycian city is nested in cove encircled by three beautiful harbors. The aqueduct still stands like a guardian at the edge of the sea, creating a magnificent arched view through to the ocean.  The salt and sea have done a number on the buildings.  Little remains in tact.  However, the grounds are well marked and the city layout is clearly identified.  Most remarkable were the number of pediment bases lining the main street that leads from one end of the harbor to the next.  Standing at regular intervals along the walk, the bases are  etched with ancient accolades to the politicians and sportsmen whose accomplishments have long outlived them.  Wrestling was prominently featured, and we had a few good laughs about our own family's involvement with the sport.  Maybe in another time, the El-Hag wrestling dynasty would have been celebrated in carved marble. At least Nabil imagined that would be the case!

We spent a short time walking the grounds and much longer mesmerized by a fisherman tossing his line ( no pole, just a line)  out and then pull it in with two to three small sardines hanging onto the bread soaked hooks.  We watched a few brave swimmers leap from their boats into the water, some of whom swam to a landing dock not far from our rock perch. The water was warm, but the air chilly.  We waited for the sun, but it did not come, so ordered a cappuccino from the lone food stall near the parking lot.

On our way back, we took the Kemer exit and found ourselves in a small village that is predominantly populated by Scandinavian  expats.  We ate on the terrace of a small but lovely restaurant owned by a Turkish entrepreneur who spent 10 years training in the food business with Royal Caribbean Cruise Line.  He gave us the low down on living in The Antalya area, strongly encouraging us and any serious vacationer to consider booking at the small outlying towns that had sprung up along the east and west shores.  Sated on freshly grilled fish and organic greens, we walked the Kemer bazaar, buying a suitcase ( how will cart all our purchases back home?) and a pair of walking sandals (as you might imagine, we are hard on shoes!).

We returned to Antalya just as the sun broke through the clouds.  Dinner with friends capped off the day.

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