Bodrum....white washed stuccoed villas nestled into a hillside overlooking a crescent moon shaped harbor bisected by a spectacular stone castle standing guard against countless invaders long lost in battle,or turned away to return to distant shores. Bodrum is a sleepy hamlet of about 15,000 people that swells to a summer population of more than a million people that swarm the covered bazaar and flock to the neon- studded bars that spill over onto the seaside promenade. The sea sparkles in a relentless cerulean sky while vendors hawk sailing excursions and fresh fish dinners in charming open air cafes that turn out grilled fish and fried calamari plucked from the morning sea. The parade of global vacationers offers a glimpse into the broadest spectrum of cultural beliefs and lifestyles. From purple-haired bare chested rockers in snake skin leggings to women in head scarves and long- sleeved floor length robes, throngs of people crowd the streets clamoring to buy knock off brands, and boutique goods. It is all here, in a sea-side soup of sweating humanity. The city of Bodrum is on the Bodrum Peninsula, a mountainous terrain with a craggy coastline dotted with coves and harbors at the place where the Aegean and Mediterranean seas merge. The deep blue sea is clean and warm and sun worshippers crowd the island in summer. We have not seen a cloud since our arrival 5 days ago. It is hot and humid, though not as humid as Charleston! We are staying at an all-inclusive resort in the village of Torba, just a few kilometers from Bodrum. The trip was arranged by friends, Osman and Malecka who have three year old twins and they too are here with us. It is an ideal family resort, but we would have preferred to stay at a a smaller hotel in a boutique setting...of which there are many. It is interesting to reflect on our changing tastes. Years ago, when we took our own kids to Club Med, we were thrilled with the convenience and the array of family friendly activities and services. Now we find it constraining and have little tolerance for mass market vacation behaviors. However we are happy with the trade-off. Our friends know the area well and we have had the bonus experience of traveling with her father and step mom ( who,live on the peninsula) to see several less well known archeological sites as well as getting to know how the locals live. Bodrum itself boasts several stunning archaeological sites, the most impressive of which is the castle, which now houses The Museum of underwater Archaeology. Of all of the museums we have viewed in our many years of travel, it is among my favorites, in part because of the setting. They have done a superb job of showcasing both history as well as the art of recovering artifacts from the sea floor. The exhibits are well organized and well marked with interesting notations that provide more insight Into the lifestyle of the people than is typically provided in most museum exhibits. On our second day here , we spent several hours wandering though the castle, We capped off the visit with a seaside lunch surrounded by Germans, Brits and Russians all chowing down on fresh grilled fish and fresh Turkish produce. Then we took off on foot to visit The Mausoleum of Helikarnossos, one of the last remaining vestiges of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. While only the foundation and a confusing assortment of building fragments remain, the museum does a remarkable job of explaining forensic archaeology and shows how architects and engineers are able to render incredibly detailed models of the building as it once was even though half the pieces are missing from this ancient jigsaw puzzle. Any thoughts of ancient civilizations being less sophisticated than our own are dispelled as you contemplate the aesthetic sensibility, construction capabilities and social order that is contained in this history. And it certainly is a reminder that the continuous cycle of creation and destruction will most certainly consume us and our modern ways just as it has in the past. From there we hoofed it up a steep and narrow alley to a site beside a major thoroughfares where an antique Roman theater sat enjoying a commanding view of the Bodrum harbor. Open to curious pedestrians, with no security or entrance fee, it seems as if the plethora of history makes it impossible for the Turks to capitalize on all of them. Many of these historical gems sit unguarded and are free for viewing if your are willing to seek them out! We wandered the site, took pictures and read the billboard which shared a few details of the site. It once sat 20,000 but now seats 4,000 and today they still hold concerts and events in an arena that has been standing for more than three millennia. Jose Feliciano performed there on Saturday!